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Vriksai Timber Intelligence

Sanding Sequence PlannerSanding Grit Sequence Planner

Plan the correct grit-by-grit sanding sequence for any wood and surface condition. Builds a step-by-step progression from coarse to fine that never skips a grade, for a flawless finish-ready surface.

Why this calculation matters

The grit sequence decides how the finish looks and how many hours the finishing stage takes. Skipping a grit costs more time in the next one than it saved.

Step-by-Step GritsNo Skipped GradesBy Wood + ConditionFinish TargetsPDF Report
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Sanding Sequence Planner

Sanding Grit Sequence Planner

Workpiece

Coarser for rough or damaged surfaces.

OK
Sanding Sequence Results
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steps
Total Steps
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grit
Start Grit
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grit
Finish Grit
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species
Wood
StepGritPurpose
Sequence Logic

About Sanding Sequence Planner

A flawless finish starts with correct sanding. The golden rule is never to skip more than one grit grade - each grit must remove the scratch pattern left by the previous one, progressively refining the surface. This planner builds the right grit-by-grit sequence for your wood and surface condition, from coarse stock removal through to your chosen finish grit. If you have ever wondered what grit sandpaper to start with, the sanding grit progression here removes the guesswork for any finish level.

Where Is This Used?

Furniture FinishingFloor SandingCabinet MakingRestorationPre-Finish PrepJoinery

Method & Rules

Progress through grits: 80 -> 120 -> 150 -> 180 -> 220 ...Never jump more than ~one grade (avoid over ~1.7x increase)Each grit removes the scratches of the previous gritAlways sand with the grain, not across itRemove all dust between grits to avoid stray coarse scratches

How the calculation works

Each grit only removes the scratches left by the one before it. Jumping a grade leaves scratches the finer paper cannot reach, and they become visible the moment stain or finish goes on — which is why the planner fills the gap rather than accepting the jump.

Show the formula
The sequence is built from the standard grit series and refined so that no step skips a grade: where a jump exists, the intermediate standard grits between the two are inserted.

A sequence rule, not a physical calculation. Stopping point depends on the finish: most water-based coatings want 180-220, and sanding finer can burnish the surface and reduce adhesion.

References

No external standard governs this calculation — it is arithmetic from your inputs. Take product-dependent figures from the manufacturer data sheet, not from here.

Limitations of this calculation

Plans grit progression only. It does not account for existing surface condition, species-specific burnishing, machine versus hand sanding rates, or the additional passes needed after grain raising.

Do not use this for Warranty-critical finishing, where the coating manufacturer specifies its own preparation.

Figures are engineering estimates from the inputs and assumptions shown. Verify against the actual material and, where the result affects structure or safety, against a qualified professional.

Sources & verification
  • Ascending grit progression

Formula checked against the sources above by an automated regression test (tests/verify-phase2.js) that derives each expected value independently of this page. Last reviewed .

How to use this tool

  1. Enter the job details below, then press Calculate.
  2. Pick your surface condition and finish target from the dropdown.
  3. Press Calculate.

Worked example

With the tool's starting values — — pressing Calculate gives: 6 steps (total steps); 80 grit (start grit); 220 grit (finish grit).

Common mistakes to avoid

  • Skipping grits. Jumping from 80 to 240 leaves scratches that only show up after staining.
  • Sanding finer than the finish needs. Beyond about 180–220, many stains stop absorbing evenly.
  • Using the same sequence for softwood and hardwood. Soft woods clog paper faster and burn easier.

Frequently Asked Questions

Why can't I jump from 80 to 220 grit?
Each grit leaves scratches of a certain size. A finer grit can only remove scratches slightly larger than its own - it cannot erase the deep gouges of a much coarser paper in reasonable time. Skipping grades leaves coarse scratches that stay invisible until you apply finish, when they suddenly show. Step through the grades.
What grit should I finish at?
For most furniture, 180-220 is the sweet spot - smooth, and open enough to take stain evenly. Go to 320+ only for oil finishes or between coats of lacquer. Beware over-sanding: past about 240 on some dense woods the surface burnishes and can reject stain, giving a blotchy result.
Does the wood species change the sequence?
Yes, to a degree. Soft, open-grained woods sand fast and can start finer; hard, dense woods may need an extra step and benefit from a slightly lower final grit to keep the surface receptive to finish. Resinous species clog paper quickly, so fresh abrasive and dust removal matter more.

Wood species data

Density, hardness and movement for 60 timbers

Browse all species